Excellence
is not achieved overnight. It is something that takes time and
dedication to attain. And once it’s pulled off, maintaining it is a
challenge. After more than three decades in the industry, excellence is
something that Cowrie Grill has got down pat. Opened in 1977 as the Manila Hotel’s flagship restaurant, it has managed to sustain a level of merit that like fine wine, only gets better with age.
In 2011, the Cowrie Grill closed to make way for Café Ilang-Ilang.
Last November 5, 2013 it was re-launched in the Greenhills Promenade to
bring it closer to valued clients. It was a little difficult to find as
we expected it to be at the front of the Promenade. A bit of walking
and going around helped us discover that it sits at the back. Just
follow the sounds of construction and walk past Uncle Cheffy and J.Co,
turn left, and you’ll find it there in all its splendor. Before going
in, I marveled at the name Cowrie Grill embossed in gold letters. Just
the name oozes sophistication. I stepped in the restaurant and my eyes
immediately went to the wall of shells on either side of the entrance.
The interiors are, in fact, decorated with thousands of cowrie shells.
The place is elegant but not intimidating with touches of local flair
here and there.
A rebirth: Cowrie Grill opens at the Greenhills Promenade
Immediately after we sat down, our attentive waitress placed cloth
napkins on our laps and gave us a bag stool for our belongings. All
throughout the meal the staff displayed their superb aptitude for
service. Our five-course meal started with a serving of chilled butter with a
selection of different breads. The butter came in two tasty flavors,
Sundried Tomato and Mixed Herb.
Flavored butter
After a bit of a wait, it was followed by a bowl of Fresh Mushroom Cappuccino Soup with Brie Croutons (P250). It was warm, a little gritty and overall pleasant with just a whisper of bitterness at the back of the tongue.
Fresh Mushroom Cappuccino Soup with Brie Croutons
A Maitre’d Caesar Salad (P290 / P460 with prawns) came
afterwards. Truth be told, it tasted like your everyday, average Caesar
salad. What made it extra special was the table side preparation. A
specially trained staff makes the dressing from scratch while you watch.
A total of 15 ingredients are carefully layered and mixed inside a
wooden salad bowl. Minced garlic, anchovies, mustard, egg yolks, olive
oil, salt, freshly ground pepper, bacon bits, just to name a few. The
garlic is spread on the bottom of the bowl and its flavor shines
through. So much so that it becomes a tad overpowering at times. But a
Caesar salad is a Caesar salad. It’s clean, fresh and, in this case,
very interesting to watch.
Maitre’d Caesar Salad
What came after the salad course drew a collective gasp from the
crowd as it was being carted into the dining area. We were treated to a
whole, roasted prime rib of U.S. Angus Beef. Cowrie Grill is, after all,
renowned for its steaks. For a meat lover like myself, it was a truly
magnificent sight to behold. Executive Chef Michael So Chan
himself carved and portioned the meat. We were each served a 10oz.
slice that I thought I could easily finish but I was sadly mistaken. I
was a few bites short of consuming the whole thing. The Roast U.S Angus Beef, Prime Rib (P1, 800 New York Cut, 14 oz. / P1,400 English Cut 10 oz.) is served with a side of baked potato, vegetables and a trio of sauces (mushroom, béarnaise, and peppercorn).
Scene stealer: Whole roasted prime rib of U.S. Angus Beef
The steak was perfectly cooked to my preference (rare to medium
rare). It was soft and tender with just the right amount of fat to keep
it interesting. A prominent figure in the food industry who was seated
in the table next to mine remarked that it was the best steak that he’s
ever had in the Metro. I couldn’t agree more. Personally, I prefer steak
served au jus but I gave the sauces a try as well and was most
impressed by the peppercorn one. The slice of Gratin Potato (P220 a la carte)
that came with the steak was nothing short of heavenly. Creamy and
cheesy, perfectly baked and layered potato slices that glide smoothly
along the tongue before it melts into an unforgettable food memory.
Served with Gratin Potato
The meal ended with another spectacle. Flambéed Baked Alaska (P420)
was prepared tableside. We oohed and ahhed as we watched flaming brandy
tossed from ladle to ladle. Strawberry and vanilla ice cream is wrapped
in chiffon cake which is then wrapped in meringue and then promptly set
on fire. Not only was it fun to watch, it was fun to eat as well.
Flambéed Baked Alaska
Cowrie Grill is the kind of place you visit when you want to
experience dining at its finest. Manila Hotel’s Executive Vice President
Dr. Enrique Yap said that, “We are offering intimate dining experiences
– something that makes our patrons sit up and notice. Something that
commands attention, is thoughtfully made, and is created with great
attention to detail – similar to what people experience at Manila Hotel.
At Cowrie Grill, we look forward to making every minute of our guests’
visit nothing short of exceptional and memorable.” And that, in a
nutshell, perfectly describes the Cowrie Grill experience.
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